Some people say that freeze protection isn't necessary, since the electroyltic injection cell will eventually warm up after you start your car and then slowly build up to its normal output. However, this may not be what you want, so adding a freezing point depressant is recommended during the winter months. In extremely cold climates, a heater would be more effective than using a great deal of additives. 

Isopropyl alcohol. This is also known as rubbing alcohol when you buy it at a drug store. It's the alcohol your mommy put on your boo-boos, I mean your wounds. Although isopropyl alcohol has poor freezing point depression, it has an unusual property when mixed (even in small quantities) with water during cold weather. Instead of your water/alcohol mixture freezing solid, the mixture will freeze to a slushy consistency with the appearance of shattered glass. This can effectively freeze proof your electrolytic cells, while still containing a high percentage of water. When your cell is warmed up by the electric current, the cell will thaw and act normally. Using rubbing alcohol is a cheap and effective way to keep your cell safe as long as you don't need a lot of HHO production in the cold winter months. Since isopropyl alcohol is volatile, it may need to be replaced periodically.

Methyl alcohol. Sometimes called wood alcohol, methanol is a very poisonous and a highly effective freezing point depressant for water. This is the same active ingredient found in windshield washer fluid. HEET®  Brand gas line additive has methyl alcohol, but ISO-HEET contains isopropyl alcohol and I would not recommend it as highly because of its volatility. You can spot methyl alcohol often by the skull-and-crossbones danger labels warning of blindness if consumed and stating that it cannot be made non-poisonous. A 12 oz. bottle of HEET has sufficient poison to kill three adults, so be careful how you store it. It is not too big of a deal if you get a little on your skin as long as you wash it off.

According to the Wikipedia, you will need 20% methanol by volume to get a freezing point (melting point) of 11 °F (-12 °C) which is what people in the South might expect. For those of you in northern climates, 30% methanol will work down to -4 °F (-20 °C), and 45% methanol for -32 °F (-35 °C) freeze protection in the extreme North. Once the freeze danger has passed, remove the methanol due to its volatility and its competition with electrolysis.

As for the side effects of electrolyzing methanol, you will be happy to learn that it produces hydrogen, too, and the results may be similar except for one caveat: free oxygen is not produced when you electrolyze methanol; carbon dioxide is. People at NASA say you can produce hydrogen from methanol, but I highly doubt that anyone will bother doing this unless a cheap source of methanol can be found. The proponents of this process point out that the electricity to produce the hydrogen from methanol is very low.

Proceed with caution when working with methanol near aluminum parts, because methanol may corrode aluminum. Here is a hint: if you are working close to an aluminum radiator, keep the methanol away from it by using a funnel or absorbent material.

You may have to add more methanol throughout the winter, since it is volatile, meaning that it will disappear along with the HHO being produced. If you experience some freezing, just top up the cell with a little methanol.

In many cases, methanol will be perfect for adding to a bubbler. Since the bubbler needs to be a liquid when you generate HHO in the cells, we recommend that your bubbler have methanol in it to prevent freezing altogether. Up to 100% methanol can be used in the bubbler.

Ethyl alcohol. Commonly called grain alcohol, ethanol is the active ingredient in adult beverages. You can buy it in large quantities, as long as it is mixed with methyl alcohol. Such mixtures are known as denatured alcohol because they are poisonous. Ethanol makes a poor freezing point depressant in low concentrations, which is why methyl alcohol is preferred. According to the Wikipedia, you will need 27% ethanol by volume to get a freezing point of 10 °F (-12 °C) which is what people in the South might expect. For those of you in northern climates, 36% ethanol will work down to -2 °F (-20 °C), and concentrations over 50% ethanol to achieve freeze protection in the extreme North.

There are not any major advantages to using ethanol, since denatured alcohol is both poisonous and probably doesn't electrolyze. (Feel free to conduct your own experiment, but I doubt ethanol will bubble out HHO or hydrogen like water and methanol do.)

Alexis Cell Electrolyte

Yes, it will go off. In fact, just about all of the HHO Kits out there do this. It is done with a simple relay. Notice that all of the kits listed come with a relay? The reason for this is that if installed correctly, the only way for the relay to turn "on" is when a control circuit is also "on." And the only way to get HHO production is therefore when the relay has been turned on.

In the simple case, (not on a Prius which is more complicated) the control circuit gets power from a fuse that will only be "hot" when the key is on. When you turn the key off, the HHO output will quickly cease.

For a Prius, the installer will need to select a control circuit that is only "hot" when the engine is running. I am not sure if you could find a fuse in your fuse panel that has this property, but a careful inspection of the engine should turn up an electrical device that is only running during engine operation. I think the most obvious example is a fuel pump. Simply splice in a wire to the fuel pump wire, add a small fuse to your splice (1 or 2 A), and then run this as power to your relay's control circuit. Tricky, but effective. In many cars, an alternative is to find and utilize the oil pressure sensor wire. If this wire is hot while the engine is running, then you can use it as an alternative to the fuel pump.

Now, the "high power" portion of the relay would be capable of 30 A (depending on the HHO kit). The "control" portion is usually under 1 A. The fuel pump splice is the control circuit. The "high power" portion is what connects to the electrolytic cell. So what will happen is that hydroxy output will cease when the relay senses that the fuel pump is off.

As a further illustration, now that you understand that a relay works on the basis of a small current flowing in a control circuit, you should instantly recognized that a simple switch, fuse, or breaker in the control circuit can be used to disable the HHO generator that is hooked to the same relay. This is why a very tiny switch installed inside your vehicle could effectively control a very large circuit some distance away.

 Hydrogen Boost Installation Procedure

Installing the Hydrogen Boost System is a matter of installing four components on gasoline vehicles and only three on diesel vehicles: (1) the hydrogen generator also known as the electrolyzer, (2) the fuel heater, (3) the engine treatment, and (4) the electronic control circuit comprise the gasoline system. The diesel system has no electronic control circuit. Here I will briefly describe the installation procedure, which is described in detail in our installation manual.

The hydrogen generator is usually installed in the engine compartment or under the front fender. It is usually placed in position where it rests on something sturdy and it is held in place with a mounting bracket that bolts to the vehicle. The wiring to the hydrogen generator is a separate circuit installed from the vehicle battery, through a fuse holder, an ammeter, and a relay, to the center electrode of the hydrogen generator, which is grounded by the mounting strap and/or a separate ground wire clamped to the outside of the unit. The relay is activated by a single wire from the fuel pump relay. The wiring kit supplies all the wire and connectors needed for installation along with the fuse holder, relay and ammeter. The wire does need to be cut to size, stripped, and terminated with various wire connectors crimped to the end of each wire. We have recently also included a multi-meter electrical tester used during installation.

The fuel heater is a simple heat exchanger that is installed in a convenient location and is plumbed to the cabin heater hose circuit and the fuel line coming to the injector rail. For some vehicle applications, the factory hosing will not reach, so you may need to purchase a few feet of heater hose, fuel line and clamps to install the fuel heater.

The engine treatment is simply added to the oil sump and for gasoline engines we give you a free upper engine lubricant treatment that is added to the gasoline. The engine treatment is permanent and never has to be repeated. On diesel vehicles we also include a permanent transmission treatment and a permanent differential treatment that is simply added to the lubricants in each. The treatment, lubricant, and the Scan gauge are not needed to get the system operational. However to improve the system and gas mileage it is included in the kit.

Synthetic oil is recommended as part of the system, but due to shipping restrictions we recommend that the customer purchase the synthetic oil locally. Even though we recommend the synthetic oil, it is not required. This is the reason why we include the treatment. The upper cylinder lubricant is not a permanent treatment like the engine treatment but it lasts about three months and shows the customer whether or not it is worth repeating the procedure on his particular vehicle. The treatment or the Hydrogen Boost System will not harm the engine like many of the oil additives out there will such as PTFE, MoS2, and halide additives. XCEL PLUS is the maker of the products we send in each kit (currently returning to its 1970's label name of Lubrilon).

The electronic control circuit is a simple potentiometer (variable resister) that is installed on a couple of wires run from your cabin into the engine compartment and attached to the MAF (mass air flow) sensor signal line or MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor signal line. The potentiometer (dial) is installed in a convenient location where the driver can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a leaner setting than normal while driving. Running your engine lean is really going to save a lot of gas, and it is the hydrogen which makes this possible. All wire connectors and wire are included with the system. During operation the upstream oxygen sensor is unplugged. The oxygen sensor is operational, the reason it needs to be kept unplugged because otherwise it will overwrite the adjustment of the electronic control circuit by increasing the fuel injected as it senses to extra lean air/fuel mixture. If you keep it unplugged it will not overwrite anything and the system will work smooth. If you have inspections in your state, you will have to plug the oxygen sensor back in place for the initial inspection and unplug it afterwards.

On gasoline vehicles we also include the Scan gauge monitoring system, which is simply plugged into the OBD-II connector under the dash by the driver's knee. This component is not needed to run the Hydrogen Boost system but is a real nice tool to keep track of your mileage and to read and reset any engine diagnostic trouble codes that may come up.

The above is not intended to be a complete and detailed instruction manual for installation. The complete and detailed manual is included with the system on computer disk and can be printed out on your computer printer if needed in the shop.

Distilled or demineralized water is added to the hydrogen generator once every full tank of fuel and is usually done when checking your oil. If water is not added, no damage is done to the engine or to the hydrogen generator (electrolyzer). Mineral water or tap water should not be used because the minerals will stay behind in the electrolyzer and eventually you will have mud inside. Distilled water can be purchased at a grocery store for under 99 cents per gallon. Rain water can be used, as well as air conditioner drippings. It only uses 12-16 ounces of water every tank full of gasoline. If you use mineral water, it will cloud up, get muddy and cause the electrolyte to need rinsing or cleaning out in weeks or months. You can use demineralized tap water if your city pipeline gets filtered.

It typically is planned to take one full work day for installation (8 hours). If you are hiring a mechanic to install the Hydrogen Boost system you should have the mechanic read the manual thoroughly and give you a price by the job, rather than by the hour. $200 to $500 should be reasonable for installation depending on the vehicle and how accessible the following components are under the hood: cabin heater hoses, fuel line, MAF sensor or MAP sensor, upstream oxygen sensor(s), fuel pump relay, battery, and location for mounting the electrolyzer. Installation can take between two hours and eight hours depending on how much time you spend looking for the components listed above.

The Hydrogen Booster extracts hydrogen from water. There are no explosive chemicals or dangerous materials in this system. There is no way for the Hydrogen Booster to damage your engine unless the installation is done improperly and safety precautions are not taken. If water runs out from the Hydrogen Booster System, it will not damage the system or the car. The less water is in the Hydrogen Booster tank, the less the system works. The system will just eventually stop working until it is filled up with water again.

Safety issues are addressed thoroughly in the manual and must be used as precaution. The manufacturer for Hydrogen Booster will not take any responsibility for the following:

• Damage to engine from improper gas hose placement and overfilling the electrolyzer.
• Fire damage cause by a fuel leak from loose connections and clamps.
• Skin burns caused by handling the electrolyte and not rinsing it off.
• Blindness caused by spilling electrolyte in you eyes and not washing it out.
• Choking caused by breathing electrolyte fumes during mixing.

Maybe. The answer is left up to you and your accountant or tax professional to decide whether this product applies to the Tax code and that this deduction is applicable to you. The question is a bit complicated, mainly because Congress has very little regulation on hydrogen fuel. It is essentially the only motor vehicle fuel that isn’t taxed by the U.S. Government. And what makes it better is that there are tax incentives to people who dispense hydrogen fuel. You might be able to claim up to a $1000 tax credit on your personal income tax per year, and more if you are depreciating your property (businesses). In either case, you can deduct 30% of the purchase price of your property.

I want to make it clear that the code seems to apply most typically to gas pumps and storage tanks at filling stations. But let us explore the code.

We start out with a definition of a “Qualified clean-fuel vehicle refueling property” found in IRS Tax Code §179A(d)

    (d) Qualified clean-fuel vehicle refueling property defined
      For purposes of this section, the term ''qualified clean-fuel
    vehicle refueling property'' means any property (not including a
    building and its structural components) if -
        (1) such property is of a character subject to the allowance
      for depreciation,
        (2) the original use of such property begins with the taxpayer,
      and
        (3) such property is -
          (A) for the storage or dispensing of a clean-burning fuel
        into the fuel tank of a motor vehicle propelled by such fuel,
        but only if the storage or dispensing of the fuel is at the
        point where such fuel is delivered into the fuel tank of the
        motor vehicle...

Are you following this? Now we started there because the above paragraph is referred to by §30C of the Tax Code, titled “Alternative fuel vehicle refueling property credit” in which we find this section:

   Sec. 30C. Alternative fuel vehicle refueling property credit

       (a) Credit Allowed- There shall be allowed as a credit
         against the tax imposed by this chapter for the taxable
         year an amount equal to 30 percent of the cost of any 
         qualified alternative fuel vehicle refueling property
         placed in service by the taxpayer during the taxable year.
       (b) Limitation- The credit allowed under subsection (a) 
         with respect to any alternative fuel vehicle refueling
         property shall not exceed--
         (1) $30,000 in the case of a property of a character
           subject to an allowance for depreciation, and
         (2) $1,000 in any other case.
       (c) Qualified Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property-
         (1) IN GENERAL- Except as provided in paragraph (2),
           the term `qualified alternative fuel vehicle refueling
           property' has the meaning given to such term by section
           179A(d), but only with respect to any fuel--
           (A) at least 85 percent of the volume of which consists
             of one or more of the following: ethanol, natural gas,
             compressed natural gas, liquefied natural gas,
             liquefied petroleum gas, or hydrogen...

      (g) Termination- This section shall not apply to any property
          placed in service--
         (1) in the case of property relating to hydrogen, after
          December 31, 2014

Now, I will not give advice, but I see a few things that might prove problematic. The first is the word property, and whether that can refer to an electrolytic injection system which is installed on a motor vehicle and is not able to power more than the vehicle in which it is installed.

The second issue is that of the fuel. I will tell you what a first-year chemistry student might tell you about oxyhydrogen (HHO) and how it fits the definition of a fuel. As a fuel, oxyhydrogen is technically and nominally 100% diatomic hydrogen, minus incidental fuels that are contaminants. You might disagree at first, but technically, the fact that diatomic oxygen makes up 1/3 by volume of Brown’s gas, or 88.9% on a mass basis is irrelevant. Why? Oxygen is not a fuel of any kind. Oxygen is an oxidant, by definition. Consult any chemistry book.

And so we might say that the fuel, that is, hydrogen, is nearly 100% hydrogen by volume. HHO is not a fuel per se, it is a combustible mixture of fuel and oxidizers. In short, the fact that an electrolytic injection system never separates the hydrogen and oxygen may have no bearing on whether the fuel is considered 100% hydrogen by the definition provided by the Energy Policy Act of 2005 and the customary definition of a fuel.

Furthermore, given the fact that electrolytic injection is not a routine fuel source, and it is quite unusual as to its production in situ, we need to carefully and intelligently define the fuel as good as we can with the definitions Congress used.

Lastly, we need to carefully determine whether or not electrolytic injection delivers fuel to the fuel tank of a vehicle (like a gas pump), or stores it prior to delivery (like a gas storage tank). Is the fuel tank the oxyhydrogen generator? The bubbler? The tube that runs to the air intake? And if we can define whether or not the product includes a fuel tank (since cars aren’t made with hydrogen fuel tanks), then we must decide if it also dispenses the fuel into the tank.

Let me summarize IRS Form 8911, if I may:

• You must put new eligible property into service in a particular year.
• If the property delivers hydrogen fuel to alternative fueled vehicles, then you can take a 30% tax credit off the purchase price of the property, up to $1000 for individuals.
• You may take this tax credit up until December 31, 2014.

I also need to say that the applicable Tax Code has changed slightly since it was written, and there is additional guidance for this tax credit given in Internal Revenue Bulletin:  2007-22, May 29, 2007, Notice 2007-43 in which you see some examples of how the tax credit is calculated and how it applies. The changes seem minor to me.

There is not currently a tax credit for modifying your engine. It expired. This is a direct quote (albeit old) from the tax code:

Any property installed on a motor vehicle
(including installation costs) to enable it to
be propelled by a clean-burning fuel if:
 a) The property is an engine (or
 modification of an engine) that can use a 
 clean-burning fuel, or
 b) The property is used to store or deliver
 that fuel to the engine or to exhaust
 gases from the combustion of that fuel.

The maximum deduction for a qualifying property was $2000 for cars and light trucks, $5000 for medium duty, and $50,000 maximum for big trucks. It can be found in IRS Publication 535, Business Expenses (for year 2001, page 45; for 2002, page 48; for 2003, page 48; for 2004, page 45). This language disappeared in 2005 and later editions of the tax code. Many websites erroneously claim that this tax credit is still available.